Maybe you’re not particularly athletic, maybe you hate the beach or are scared of the ocean, or maybe you don’t think you fit the surfer “type”. Whatever your reason, learning to surf as an adult can be daunting, so here are some notes on my experience as a 30-year-old woman who hated the beach, isn’t athletic, and does not fit the surfer “type”.
It has been re-branded over the weeks as courageous, exciting, and scary, but, to anyone that really thinks about it, it wasn’t the most intelligent move. I quit my job in an IT-adjacent field without a new job lined up. I quit my job to follow my “dream”. I quit my job to become a writer.